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On Food and Travel

Essay
  • 6 April 2016
  • Nuraini Juliastuti

I fell asleep for 30 minutes in the early part of the flight from Vienna to Amsterdam last week. It was Saturday, September 1, 2012. I initially thought that the aircraft was still preparing for take off in Schwechat international airport until I saw bubble-shaped clouds from my window. We flew up in the air. The whole area of the plane felt so quiet. Maybe the passengers were still sleeping. I do not think I am qualified as someone who has high level of flying experience. But my personal observation tells that taking-off is the time where the passengers would likely go to sleep—maybe unexpectedly.  I saw two flight attendants pushed a trolley towards me.  As they pushed the trolley, I heard one of them said, “Savory or sweet snack?”.

I chose the savory snack. I initially thought that what were inside the small package handed to me were peanuts. But what were inside it were pentagon-shaped salty biscuits. They tasted good. A man who sat next to me chose the sweet snack. I tried to guess what was inside the package he had. Maybe it was a stroopwafel. Or maybe it was a sweet pie. I slowly munched the salty biscuits. I wondered whether they could fall under ‘pretzel’ category. What I munched on were pentagon-shaped biscuits. They neither knot-shaped biscuits nor were the stick-shaped ones. But my pentagon-shaped biscuits were also flavored with salt.

Biscuit, cracker, wafer, and fruit are some good travel foods. It is said because they are foods that I always buy when traveling. Tissues and mineral water are also items that have to be available in my bag. Some people always prepare wet wipes in their bags. I never buy wet wipes. There is too much perfume in them. I have not seen any vending machines, which dispense tissues so far. I also notice that I always buy such foods when traveling by train. I rarely travel by bus. I tend to feel nauseous when traveling by bus.

When I was still living in Indonesia, train was the main means of travel from cities to cities. The duration of intercity travels in the Netherlands, the country where I temporarily stay now, is usually short. The usual time taken to travel from Leiden, the city where I live, to Den Haag, is 12 minutes by an Intercity train. If I took a Sprinter train, the time of travel needed would stretch to 17 minutes. The time taken to travel from Leiden to Amsterdam is 36 minutes by an Intercity train. In response to such short duration of travels, a different mode in preparing travel foods would be created. I would just bring along coffee and bread when traveling by train here. The duration of intercity travels in Indonesia is usually long. The usual time taken to travel from Yogyakarta, the city where I lived, to Jakarta, is 10 hours by a Taksaka or an Argo Lawu speed train. Whereas the time taken to travel from Yogyakarta to Surabaya, the city where I was born and raised, also the city where my parents live, is 6 to 7 hours by a Sancaka speed train.

Long travels may trigger boredom.  There are different activities that people may do during long travels. Some of them may find happiness in sleeping, letting themselves be carried away by dreams, or simply tiredness. The others may choose to continue their works—reading books, working on their laptops. Snacking is operated in an arbitrary manner. It is something that has to be available when needed. Such randomness character of snacks makes them a good traveling companion. There is no guarantee that some particular snacks would cure sudden boredom. Choosing food travels, or snack travels in particular, is a trial and error process. We stand in front of supermarket racks of snacks and try to imagine what they would taste. We try, we try, and we try again. Further, we try to contextualize their taste in particular means of transportation. We may also consider about how their packages would fit into our bags.

On an intercity travel with a night train in Indonesia, an executive one in particular, Kereta Api Indonesia, or The Indonesian Railway, a state owned corporation which is in charge of operating public railways, will serve snack and dinner to the passengers. Snacks are packaged in a paper box. The box has a Kereta Api Indonesia symbol printed on it. Each box consists of bread with fruit jam filling, packaged in a plastic package, and a cup of mineral water. Dinner served in green serving trays. In each tray, we usually would have nasi (rice), oseng-oseng buncis (green beans dish with soy bean sauce), fried chicken or fried egg, and shrimp crackers. I do not know whether Kereta Api Indonesia still provide snack and dinner or lunch, for those who take afternoon executive trains, to the passengers. I did not know when it started but I presumed that since early 2010 to mid of 2011, apart from my usual snack travel, I had decided to bring along a box of bento from a Jakarta-based Japanese fast food restaurant, Hoka-Hoka Bento, or a package of lunch or dinner, consisting of rice, sauted vegetables, and fish or chicken dish.

A further note of snack in the box. My mother used to bring a box of snacks every time she had a meeting in her office. She was a principal of a state elementary school in Gresik. Gresik is a district in East Java province. It is only 30 kilometres away from Surabaya. It is a home for Semen Gresik, the largest cement factory in Indonesia, and Petrokimia Gresik, the largest fertilizer factory. What were inside the box were varied from time to time. Apparently, in her work environment, a meeting is the time where each participant would likely get a box of snacks. I reminisced about the times when I would patiently wait my mother from her work at home, and embraced the snack box from her arms with a heap of smiles.

Snacks, lunch, and dinner services are not provided in economy and business trains in Indonesia. Mobile food vendors serve as stable food providers in such trains. Peanuts, fried tofu slices, chips, different kinds of rice-based snacks, different kinds of bread with sweet fillings, cold drinks. They will freely walk the whole train, carrying their food products in baskets or portable racks, and offering them to the passengers. As they walk along the train, each of them will shout out their selling items. They form a food choir. In their own ways, they have contributed to the train soundscape. As they get out in the next stop, the train is back to its quiet state.

A further note of food vendors and the city that we have just visited. Street vendors are everywhere in Taipei. I went there two months ago. I saw them in front of shops, on pavements, and on street corners of the city. Bakeries. Big bakeries. Small bakeries. Snacks are everywhere. Taiwan is a nation of snacks. I bought a snack from one of the vendors in Taipei City Mall. I do not know what it is called in Taipei. It is a waffle—in the form of fish—with a cheese and corn filling. The waffle sellers were a man and his daughter. Or I think she was his daughter. The recently cooked waffles were put inside a rack, which has a glass sliding door. According to their fillings, waffles will be categorized into several groups. In front of each group, there was a paper signboard with the name of the filling written on it. Cheese and corn. Powdered green tea. Red bean. Each filling was written in English and Chinese characters. Why did not I choose the waffle with powdered green tea or red bean instead? Green tea powder would give the impression that I just bought a healthy snack. I think red bean is healthier than a mixture of cheese and corn. I once bought bread with red bean filling for breakfast.. It was a Sunday and it was the day when the pain from my eyes problem reached its peak. The bread has shredded almond on top. On my first night in Taipei, I bought a round-shaped waffle with red bean filling. It seems that Taiwanese people like red beans.

I think one of the best methods of remembering my days in Taipei is through remembering the kinds of snacks that I had everyday. I bought a package of shredded almonds and dried belacan on my first day in the city. It was Thursday, July 12, 2012. I decided to eat at least two different snacks each day. I ate thin slices of dried fish on the next day. C bought them from the 7 11 store nearby our hotel. The same shop also sold boiled eggs. Two big bowls of boiled eggs were placed on top of a wooden table placed at the centre of the store. A pile of paper plates was placed next to the bowls. The color of the boiled eggs was dark brown. What is the mixture of herbs and spices used for boiling the eggs, I wonder? Are the Taiwanese people perceiving boiled eggs as a snack or an additional menu for meals? I bought a package of chocolate biscuits with shredded almonds in a bakery shop on the street that I walked everyday from the hotel to the conference venue at the National Taiwan Normal University on Saturday night.

I bought a package of chocolate cake from the same shop on Friday night. C bought me a pastry with pork floss filling on Monday night. I bought the same pastry on the night before leaving Taipei. I ate it at the Taipei airport while waiting for my flight to Amsterdam. It was my lunch. While slowly eating the pastry, I was thinking of the shop, which sold ice cream at Shida night market. The vendor sold the ice cream in big cones. Does the ice cream taste good, I wonder? I regretted the fact that I did not buy the ice cream. It seems to me that eyes and impulse buying work in different work principles when traveling.

Vending machines can easily be found in public spaces: library, train station, office building. They are usually placed at the corner of the building, at the corner of the streets, on train platforms. They are machines on which people depend when the needs for snacks or foods arise. It seems that they are placed at places where the need for quick refreshment happens unexpectedly. Vending machines offer a rich variety of things: hot drinks—tea, coffee, hot water, snacks, candies, sandwiches, fruits. I have found some vending machines and photo booths that are placed side by side in train stations in Harleem, a city, which is situated in between Leiden and Amsterdam, and Vienna. Instant and practical are two important characters of vending machines as well as other machines attached to them. They are machines, which deal with a matter of speed. I did a little experiment with a vending machine in a building where I worked three days ago. This building is called Pieter de la Court. It is an eight-story building, which belongs to Faculty of Social Science, Leiden University. There is a vending machine in each floor in the building. But the machine placed in there is the one, which only dispenses hot drinks. If one wants to buy snacks and cold drinks, he or she has to go to one of vending machines lined up on the ground floor. The distance between the room where one sits and the vending machines may influence snacking appetite negatively. I have never used a bankcard to buy anything from a vending machine. So I decided to use a bankcard to buy cracker. The brand of the vending machine in the university is ‘Mass International’. I bought crackers with basil, tomatoes, and cheese cream. It has become my favorite snack. I inserted the bankcard, then the machine asked me the number code of the cracker. It was 47. It is a one Euro snack. The machine did not ask me to type the pin code of the bankcard. After typing the number code of the cracker, a notification that the snack was ready to be picked.

By the time the flight from Vienna landed in Schiphol that day, I decided to buy a box of spring rolls in Kwantung.

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BAKUDAPAN is a study group that discuss ideas about food. The word BAKUDAPAN itself is inspired by “bakudapa”, which comes from Manadonese (North Sulawesi) language meaning to “meet”, and also “kudapan” which is a kind of snack that is usually served when there are activities such as a meeting, visiting, and even when hanging out. Therefore, “bakudapan” can be translated as eating snacks while meeting. Through this name, we would like to meet with people who have an interest in food.

BAKUDAPAN adalah sebuah kelompok studi yang mengkaji topik-topik mengenai makan dan makanan. BAKUDAPAN sendiri terinspirasi dari kata “bakudapa” yang berasal dari bahasa Manado (Sulawesi Utara), yang berarti “bertemu”, dan “kudapan” adalah makanan ringan yang biasa disajikan saat adanya aktivitas bertemu orang lain, baik bertamu, rapat, ataupun nongkrong. Sehingga “bakudapan” dapat diartikan sebagai kegiatan bertemu sambil memakan kudapan. Melalui nama inilah, kami ingin bertemu dengan orang-orang yang memiliki ketertarikan terhadap makanan.

We believe that food not merely about filling the stomach. Moreover, food are not restricted about cooking, history, conservation and the ambition to introduce it to the world. For us, food can be an instrument to speak about broader issues, such as politics, social, gender, economy, philosophy, art, and culture.

Kami percaya bahwa makanan tidak hanya soal memasak, asal muasalnya, serta ambisi untuk melestarikan dan mengenalkannya kepada dunia. Bagi kami, makanan dapat menjadi alat dan jalan masuk untuk membicarakan isu yang lebih luas, baik itu ekonomi, politik, sosial, gender, seni, maupun budaya yang lebih luas.

As a study group, we were open for those who would like to join with our projects and activities, despite the difference of backgrounds. The main scheme in our projects is to do cross reference and research about food, which have a trajectory between art, ethnography, research and practice. In doing research, we interested to explore and experiment with the methods and forms, from arts (performance, artistic setting, exhibition, etc) to daily life practices (cooking, gardening, reading, etc). As a reflection process and our intention to generate and share the knowledge, we produce a journal in every projects and actively train ourselves to writes in our website.

Sebagai kelompok belajar kajian makanan, kami terbuka untuk rekan-rekan yang ingin bergabung dengan latar belakang yang beragam. Skema kerja dalam kelompok Bakudapan ini adalah melakukan penelitian dan silang referensi tentang makanan, baik dalam ranah etnografi, antropologi dan seni. Dalam prakteknya kami juga tertarik bereksperimen dengan berbagai metode, mulai dari aktivitas pameran seni, performans, hingga kegiatan seperti memasak, berkebun, klub membaca dan lainnya. Sebagai bagian dari proses riset dan reflektif, kami sedang memaksa diri kami untuk aktif menulis melalui website ini.

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Elia Nurvista (b.1983)
Elia Nurvista explores a wide range of art mediums with an interdisciplinary approach and focuses on the discourse on food politics. Through food, she intends to scrutinize power, social, and economic inequality in this world. Using several mediums from workshop, study group, publication, site specific, performance, video and art installations, she explores the social implications of the food system to critically address the wider issues such as ecology, gender, class and geopolitics. In 2015, with Khairunnisa she initiated Bakudapan Food Study Group. She actively works on her individual projects as well as collective work with Bakudapan.

Elia Nurvista (b.1983)
Elia Nurvista merupakan seniman multidisiplin yang karya-karyanya fokus pada politik pangan. Melalui pangan, ia ingin melihat lebih dalam tentang ketimpangan kekuasaan, sosial, dan ekonomi yang beroperasi secara global. Dengan menggunakan berbagai medium seperti lokakarya, kelompok belajar, publikasi, site specific, pertunjukan, video dan instalasi seni, ia mengeksplorasi implikasi sosial dari sistem pangan untuk secara kritis menyikapi isu-isu yang lebih luas seperti ekologi, gender, kelas dan geopolitik. Pada tahun 2015, bersama Khairunnisa, ia memprakarsai Bakudapan Food Study Group. Ia aktif mengerjakan proyek-proyek individualnya dan juga kerja kolektif bersama Bakudapan.

Eliesta Handitya (b. 1998)
Eliesta Handitya is an anthropology learner, graduated from Cultural Anthropology Department, UGM. She worked on a daily basis as an independent researcher, writer, and editor based in Yogyakarta/Bandung. Liesta is interested in delving on how cultural and social movements become ways in weaving mutual collaboration, practicing collective care to sustain equality and justice, and create space for people to learn together—nurtured with the community or in her daily personal life. Her research revolves around the intersectionalities between urban issues, social-technological studies, social-ecological justice, and cultural labor issues. Liesta is also a member of Struggles for Sovereignty, and co-managing independent publication project named Poppakultura.

Eliesta Handitya (b. 1998)
Eliesta Handitya adalah seorang pembelajar antropologi, lulusan Departemen Antropologi Budaya, UGM. Saat ini, ia bekerja sebagai penulis, peneliti, dan editor independen berbasis di Yogyakarta/Bandung. Liesta tertarik mendalami bagaimana gerakan sosial dan kebudayaan bisa menjadi cara untuk merajut kolaborasi yang setara, merawat kesetaraan dan keadilan, dan menciptakan ruang tumbuh bersama—ditumbuhkan melalui kerja komunitas maupun dalam kehidupan personal sehari-hari. Fokus penelitian yang ia dalami, di antaranya persilangan mengenai isu perkotaan, pangan, kajian dengan pendekatan sosial-teknologi, keadilan sosial-ekologi, dan pekerja budaya. Liesta juga merupakan anggota Struggles for Sovereignty, dan sedang mengelola proyek penerbitan independen bernama Poppakultura.

Gatari Surya Kusuma (b.1993)
Gatari is a cultural worker based in Yogyakarta, Indonesia. She has been part of Bakudapan Food Study Group since the start. Besides being part of Bakudapan, she is working as a researcher in KUNCI Study Forum & Collective. Her interest in these collectives is to continue exploring in research methods and understanding of learning. And also about how knowledge is re-produce and re-question in these topics. Lately it is working on topics such as collective work practice and city as a space.

Gatari Surya Kusuma (b.1993)
Gatari adalah seorang pekerja budaya yang tinggal di Yogyakarta, Indonesia. Dia telah menjadi bagian dari Kelompok Studi Makanan Bakudapan sejak awal. Selain menjadi bagian dari Bakudapan, ia juga bekerja sebagai peneliti di KUNCI Study Forum & Collective. Ketertarikannya pada kolektif ini adalah untuk terus mengeksplorasi metode penelitian dan pemahaman pembelajaran. Dan juga tentang bagaimana pengetahuan diproduksi ulang dan dipertanyakan kembali dalam topik-topik tersebut. Akhir-akhir ini mereka sedang mengerjakan topik-topik seperti praktik kerja kolektif dan kota sebagai sebuah ruang.

Meivy Andriani Larasati (b. 1998)
Meivy is a researcher and translator with eclectic interests. Perhaps her years as an anthropology student may be responsible for this outlook as she continues striving to find meaning and wonder in the mundane. In Bakudapan, she found an expansive way to channel her misgivings about food and learn about collectivity. She is currently honing her skills in reading and writing, as well as volunteering. Sometimes she writes in her personal blog besokbesokbesok.wordpress.com

Meivy Andriani Larasati (b. 1998)
Meivy adalah seorang peneliti dan penerjemah dengan minat yang eklektik. Mungkin pengalamannya mempelajari antropologi budaya bertanggung jawab atas pandangannya ini, karena ia terus berusaha menemukan makna dan keajaiban dalam hal-hal yang biasa. Di Bakudapan, ia menemukan cara untuk menyalurkan keraguannya tentang makanan dan belajar tentang kolektivitas. Saat ini ia sedang mengasah kemampuannya dalam membaca dan menulis, serta menjadi sukarelawan. Terkadang ia menulis di blog pribadinya besokbesokbesok.wordpress.com

Monika Swastyastu (b 1994)
Monika is an independent researcher with a background in cultural anthropology. Her research covers topics such as identity, food security,foodways, ethical consumption, and green capitalism. She has a particular interest in food anthropology. Additionally, Monika is a self-taught cook who explores various flavors and recipes. Recently, she has been interested in developing wine with local fruits under her own label. She also has experience in the food and beverage business.

Monika Swastyastu (b 1994)
Monika adalah seorang peneliti independen dengan latar belakang antropologi budaya. Penelitiannya mencakup topik-topik seperti identitas, ketahanan pangan, kebiasaan makan, konsumsi etis, dan kapitalisme hijau. Ia memiliki minat khusus dalam antropologi pangan dan juga eksplorasi metodologi penelitian. Selain itu, Monika adalah seorang juru masak otodidak yang mengeksplorasi berbagai rasa dan resep. Baru-baru ini, ia tertarik mengembangkan wine dengan buah-buahan lokal di bawah labelnya sendiri. Ia juga memiliki pengalaman dalam bisnis makanan dan minuman.

Khairunnisa (b.1991)
Khairunnisa (Nisa) is an independent researcher and art worker. She co-founded Bakudapan Food Study Group after she graduated from the Cultural Anthropology Department at Gadjah Mada University. She is currently an active member in Struggles for Sovereignty. Through her experience working in collectives, she gained interest in experimenting with research practices and learning methods. Nisa’s ongoing research interests are care and domestic works, solidarity and knowledge production which she actively exercises in her practice personally and collectively.

Khairunnisa (b.1991)
Khairunnisa (Nisa) adalah seorang peneliti independen dan pekerja seni. Dia mendirikan Bakudapan Food Study Group bersama seorang teman setelah menyelesaikan jenjang sarjana di Antropologi Budaya, Universitas Gadjah Mada. Saat ini dia juga aktif sebagai anggota dari Struggles for Sovereignty. Sebagai seorang peneliti, Nisa memiliki ketertarikan dalam kerja domestik dan perawatan, solidaritas, dan pertukaran pengetahuan yang dia kembangkan baik secara personal maupun bersama kolektif.

Shilfina Putri Widatama (b. 1998)
Shilfina is currently involved in a range of communication work, from research-based artistic projects and project management to campaign and advocacy strategizing. Her practice mainly focuses on climate justice advocacy, with additional specialization in issues of energy sovereignty and development, gender, and ecology. Her analytical approach is influenced by her undergraduate study of philosophy at Universitas Gadjah Mada. She believes in the strength of collectivity and often contributes to the creation of illustrations, graphic design, and copywriting in her practice.

Shilfina Putri Widatama (b. 1998)
Saat ini Shilfina terlibat dalam berbagai kerja-kerja komunikasi, mulai dari proyek artistik berbasis penelitian, manajemen proyek hingga perencanaan kampanye dan advokasi. Kesehariannya yang berkutat dalam advokasi keadilan iklim juga memiliki fokus penekanan pada isu-isu kedaulatan energi serta pembangunan, gender, dan ekologi. Pendekatannya yang analitis juga dipengaruhi oleh studi sarjananya yaitu Ilmu Filsafat di Universitas Gadjah Mada. Shilfina percaya pada kekuatan kolektivitas dan sering berkontribusi dalam pembuatan ilustrasi, desain grafis, dan penulisan naskah dalam praktiknya.

Esty Wika Silva (b. 1994)
Silva is interested in issues related to the environment and daily activism, delving into emotions, psychology, and collective awareness that are interconnected in the everyday relationships between communities and individuals as a reflection, and using embroidery as an artistic medium to document and reflect the process. Silva is also interested in exploring textile waste management from her embroidery production for various needs such as crafting and slow fashion in small-scale. Apart from that, she works as a commissioned illustrator, writes fiction, and explores music culture and independent publishing

Esty Wika Silva (b. 1994)
Silva tertarik dengan isu-isu yang bersinggungan dengan lingkungan dan aktivisme sehari-hari, mendalami emosi, psikologi dan kesadaran kolektif yang saling terhubung dalam relasi sehari-hari antar komunitas dan individu sebagai refleksinya, dan menggunakan pendekatan artistik media sulam untuk mencatat proses tersebut. Silva juga tertarik mendalami pengolahan limbah tekstil dari proses produksi sulamnya untuk berbagai kebutuhan seperti slow fashion dan crafting dalam skala kecil. Selain itu, ia juga bekerja sebagai ilustrator komisi, menulis fiksi, mengeksplorasi kultur musik dan terbitan mandiri.